Ni‘ihau Shell Lei Showcase
Sometime in the long-forgotten past of the island of Ni‘ihau, the first shell lei was likely made of colorful shells gathered on a nearby beach and strung on a single strand of twine made of an organic material available on the island.
Today, however, there is a wide variety of methods that the artisans use to sew a shell lei, and masters of this fine art continue experimenting to develop new styles in order to produce unique creations for family, friends, collectors, and also for those who are just learning about this traditional Hawaiian folk art for the first time.
If you are a novice who wishes to become knowledgeable about the art of making Ni‘ihau shell lei, there are many terms you will eventually need to learn which refer to the various hues of the shells themselves or of the style of sewing a lei. One common method used today is called kipona, and this term refers to a lei made with a combination of different kinds of shells, usually momi and kahelelani.
Ni‘ihau shell lei pictured in this showcase are mostly from private collections, so they are not for sale. They are included here to provide a glimpse of the many styles of lei designed by Ni‘ihau artisans using tiny, exquisite shells gathered on remote beaches of the Forbidden Island.
This kipona lei contains a combination of shells of extremely rare colors.
A close-up of two kipona lei side by side showing truly rare colors of shells.
An extraordinary 60-inch three-strand kipona lei.
Notice the hard-to-find deep-colored momi kahakaha shells in this lei.
This close-up shows rare pure white and dark uliuli shells next to each other.
Look closely to see the yellow tip on the flower hot-pink kahelelani shells.
A three-strand kipona lei which includes hot-pink kahelelani shells.
A three-strand kipona lei with pleasing color combinations.
Notice the combination of rare-colored momi shells.
This kipona lei is made mostly of kahelelani shells.
Notice the color consistency of the kahelelani shells.
This kipona lei includes rare shells such as the momi uliuli.
Note consistency of style and color combinations.
Kahelelani shells are sewn with the square tie which precedes the poepoe.
A closer view of the square-tie style of sewing kahelelani shells.
A three-strand kipona lei using pure white momi shells.
A closer view of the kahelelani poepoe style.
Five strands of a momi lei have pleasing color combinations.
Notice the excellent graduation of the size of the momi shells.
A fine example of chokers sewn in the four-tie wili style.
A wili lei made around 1970.
A choker and a three-strand lei sewn in the heliconia style.
An eight-strand kahelelani and kamoa lei that was a family heirloom.
A three-strand lei sewn in the single crown flower style.
Close-up of the single crown flower style of sewing a lei.
A ten-strand lei of pure white laiki shells.
A choker and a three-strand momi lei sewn in the poepoe style.
Double pikake or coconut weave with spiral style of kahelelani shells.
Top lei is of bumpy laiki sewn in the old hold-hand style.
A kahelelani choker sewn in the wili style.
The three-strand kipona lei is made of momi and baby ‘opihi shells.
Baby ‘opihi shells below are not commonly used in Ni‘ihau shell lei.
This lei is in the double crown flower style with a dozen different colors.
Bottom kipona lei uses momi, kahelelani, and kamoa shells.
Notice the waipapipi (hot pink) kahelelani shells in the upper lei.
The top lei is a maunaloa-style lei using kahelelani and kamoa shells.
Note size graduation in this white ‘alilea lei sewn in poepoe style.
‘Alilea are much larger than shells used in most other Ni‘ihau lei.
The shells in this lei are called ‘alilea maku‘e.
Notice the consistency of color and graduation of the shells in this lei.
Both golden and dark-brown polehu shells are used in this lei poepoe.
Smooth cowries are used for the clasps in this kahelelani choker.
Notice the graduation in size of the rare hot-pink shells in this choker.